Craft

How to Choose Craft Threads

Threads are important when crafting quilts. You will need certain threads that match your fabric, as well as suitable supplies and needles. Yet, when you consider matching threads to your fabric, you will also need to consider a few other details.

Types of threads:
You have choices of thread, including rayon, buttonhole-twists, silk, all-purpose, cotton, nylon wool, monofilament, metallic, exceptionally fine, mercerized cotton and so on. To consider threads, first you must ask if you are intending to create your quilt by hand, or machine? Do you prefer to darn or to bast?

If you are sewing fabric piece onto fabric, using shaped pieces to form your pattern, you may want to choose the mono-filament nylon thread. On the other hand, if you are sewing your fabric by hand, sewing the pieces to form a pattern then the silky threads, or the all-purpose threads may be a good option.

If you are hand crafting you may want to consider other threads than the all-purpose. For instance, you may get more from the threads with polyester cores and wrapped in cotton. The polished 100$ finished cotton is also available. If you use the thread with finished polish, it will reduce wearing if you are sewing by hand. The thread will help you stitch smoothly without worrying about tangles, creases, etc.

TIP: Buy beeswax cake to minimize tangles.

Once you finish choosing your threads, you will need to create a craft basket. The basket will include thimbles, scissors both for cutting paper and fabric, (a few pairs) threader, hand needles, pencils, tailor chalk, seam ripper, and a measuring device. You will also need straight quilter pins, pincushion, glue stick, and a few safety pins. (Large)

Once you gather your basket, you may want to add supplies, such as rotary cutters, iron/board, masking tape, press cloth, spray bottle, graphing/tracing paper, hoops and frames, colored pencils, plastic sheet, ruler, cutting mat, and so on. You may even want to toss in a few band-aids to cover those pokes and sticks you will get from hand sewing your quilt.

When you purchase your needles choose the “household assortment” kits to sum up your sewing needs. Otherwise, needle sizes are opposite, i.e. if you purchase the larger numbers, you get a smaller needle.

If you are hand, sewing you may want to consider “sharp” needles. The needles make it easy to stitch through heavy-duty material. In stores you might look for sharps, or “household needles.” To shorten your field trip on the mind tangler, just purchase a couple of 8’s and 9’s, as well as the variety packages. The needles with slotted eyes are called the “easy-threader,” which you can use also if you have problems using other needles.

You will need the seam ripper to correct your mistakes. The rippers will cut your thread, yet you should practice before you use them on the actual quilt, especially if you are new at making quilts.

You will need markers as well as a ruler to measure seams, patterns, fabric, etc. The needle threader will make it easy to thread. Remember the tips of some needles are small, making it difficult to get the thread pulled through the eye. Thimbles are designed to reduce the need for band-aids. You will need to test a few thimbles to fit them to your fingers.

In all, each item in your basket will help you complete your quilt. If you are new at quilting, visit your library, or go online to learn more steps to help you create a fashionable design, or a traditional style if you choose.

Why Buy Cross Stitch Kit Instead Of Purchasing Chart & Material Separately?

Lots of new stitchers question what the distinction is in between buying a cross stitch kit and buying the chart and supplies independently. Lots of cross stitch designs are available in both kit and chart just forms. There are numerous things to think about this favourite stitcher’s dilemma.

Your personal choices in cross stitch supplies

Material. Do you prefer a certain kind of material? Would you instead stitch on linen than on Aida? What about the colour of stuff in the kit; do you desire white fabric or coloured material for your background? Would you instead purchase a hand-dyed material for this task?

Threads — Do you favour DMC embroidery threads over other brands? Are all the colours of the brand name you wish to use available to you easily for purchasing or will you need to hunt for missing colours are necessary to stitch your job?

Beads — If any beads are used in the project are you comfortable using them or would you slightly remove them and utilise Colonial Knots or French Knots instead? The brand is a choice for some for beads too; some prefer the structure of one brand over another.

Size of the material

Numerous stitchers have an extremely particular choice about just how much fabric is left around the edge of the project for framing and ending up. Generally, in the getting of a kit, you will have somewhere in between 1-3 inches of material around the border of the style.

If you have specific requirements that you or you’re are securely decided upon it is most likely finest to buy your material rather than using the equipment in a kit.

The number of threads, beads and embellishments

Another thing to consider is how much thread you utilise for a task. Cross stitch kits consist of a pre-measured amount of floss and beads. While some packages have more than enough materials supplied it is, once again, never a guarantee that it will suffice for you to finish the job. If you were to acquire your threads separately, you could buy extra, to begin with, and not have to fret about thread dye lots being various.

The type of chart used

Typically a kit version of a cross stitch chart will differ somewhat from a chart only purchase. The chart just variations tend to have a heavy card stock cover or are entirely printed on card stock or much heavier paper than what you may get in your cross stitch kit purchase. The chart in a kit might be of a lighter weight paper and tear more easily.

Would you like to stitch the design for more than one time?

For example, if you have two kids and wish to stitch the same style once for each of the children, it might be less expensive and more organised to purchase the chart & materials separately than to buy two cross stitch sets. This likewise enables the capability to utilise little varying materials for each to provide their flair although they are the same design.

Stringing Choices For Beading & Jewelry Making

One very important lesson I learned is that there is no one, all-purpose (Universal) stringing material.

Here are the major stringing materials along with how and when to use each of them.

SILK THREAD: Silk has a wondrous “hand” (a soft, flexible feel). This thread comes in many sizes and colors. It comes packaged on spools, and “carded” with an attached needle. This is a classic stringing material and forms beautiful knots between pearls and beads. But, silk tends to be relatively fragile. It can stretch, be cut by abrasive beads, rot when wet, and pearls strung on silk should be re strung every few years. It is best to use silk when stringing pearls and lightweight, smooth-holed beads, only. A needle is necessary.

NYLON THREAD: (Nymo): This thread also comes in many sizes and colors. It comes packaged on spools, on bobbins, and “carded” with a needle attached. Nylon can be used where-ever silk can and is not as fragile. This material knots beautifully and can be used for pearl stringing, in some strung jewelry, seed beadwork, loom weaving, for Peyote and other specialty stitches, and heishi. Nylon stretches much less than silk, and it won’t rot when wet. Like silk, you shouldn’t use beads with sharp edged holes or that are heavy. When you use nylon thread, I would recommend you coat your thread with bee’s wax or “Thread HeavenTM “ before use to prevent it from fraying. A needle is necessary.

BONDED NYLON: This is a much stronger form of nylon thread. The strands are physically bonded together for extra strength and abrasion protection. Although it knots well, it doesn’t have the “hand” of silk. Bonded nylon comes in a variety of colors and smaller spools. Because of its abrasion resistance, you can use it with “hard”, more abrasive gem beads; in fact this comes close to being a “Universal Thread”. Brand names include: “Stringth” or “Silkon”. A needle is necessary, although you can put “Super Glue” on the end to form a “Self-needle”. This is a favorite beading material of mine.

FISHING LINE: This material is a hard, semi-rigid, single strand of plastic. It doesn’t knot well, and in time sunlight or ultraviolet light can cause it to weaken and fall apart. Fishing line is purchased on small spools and is sold in sporting goods stores. Personally, I use fishing line for two purposes. I use it to do my preliminary stringing while I am designing a necklace (I transfer the beads to a better material for the final product), and to string together “raw” strands of beads. There is no needle necessary. I would never use this material for a final beaded piece.

How to Craft Doll Dresses

Doll dresses are fun to make. First, however you must learn the rules for beginners to make quality designs. To start you will need to consider fabric. Some people like multi-colored clothing, however the clothes must harmonize to deliver quality dresses.

To make sure that you accomplish quality doll dresses, you will need the right equipment and tools. You will need a sewing machine, cleansers, universal needles, including stretch needles, pins, olfaa panel, and a rotary or gyratory cutter. You will also need hand-sew needles, dressmaker scissors, sewing scissors, fabric glue and pen, greaseproof paper for tracing, pencil, measuring tape, lace, ribbons, fasteners, elastic, paper scissors, etc.

Before you get started, you will need to clean your sewing machine. Use “Dust Away,” to spray your machine near the bobbin region. You will also need to clean the bar where the needles are installed, as well as the “tension” discs at the top. Once you clear the machine of dust, use a drop of oil.

Now you are prepared to make doll dresses. Before I forget, make sure you have thread, specifically DMC broder if you intend to make French dresses.

How to trim:
You can use the pin tuck method to trim your doll dress. You will need twin needles, and a foot that is designed for pin tucking. Set up your machine. The right needle should be clockwise while the left counterclockwise. At the “tension” discs, you should have the left needle threaded on the same side, and the right needle threaded on the right thread. To keep your dresses fresh, you can use starch to spray your dress prior to pin tucking.

How to pin tuck skirts:
When pin tucking skirts make sure you leave some space.

How to pin tuck sleeves and/or bodice:
Take a square of your fabric and pin tuck it. You can cut out the upper section of the dress and/or sleeves after. Keep in mind when you start pin tucking for sleeves and bodice, the fabric size is modified, or reduced.

If you are not familiar with pin tucks, you can tuck your doll dress. To tuck you merely consider the size and width of your garment. To start you press down, pressing the folded center. Along the fold and edge of your fabric, stitch the width precisely. As long as you stay consistent within your stitching lines, you will do fine. You should always start sewing at the grain after pulling a single thread.

After you complete your dress, or near the finish, you may want to consider bows, tassels, smock, or hand sewn objects. Hand embroidering is ideally used in finishing. Use a range of DMC embroidery to make finish your dress.

Smocking is the added finishing whereas you use patterns to complete your dress. Silk ribbons, satin single and double ribbons make up a great pinafore, or back dressing.

Tassels are easy to make, yet you will, need crochet threads and/or embroidery thread to complete your mission. You will also need cardboard in which you will need to cut out a part a length longer than your tassel. Use your thread, wound it around the cut part, and continue until you have achieved the thickness you desire. At one end of the part, use the same thread and channel it through the thickness. Next, tie the thread so that it knots and at the opposite end of your part, cut. Do not cut your thread. Now you are ready to make your tassel.

To finish, at the knotted region, convey your thread so that it meets with your tassel. Next, wound another part of thread about the finish of your tassel a few times. Knot the area so that it is taut. At the finish of your tassel, skid the thread in to fasten your finished work. If the finish necessitate cutting to make sure it is constant, do so now.